Bon Appetit interviews Mr. Henderson

Hello all! I’ve been busy running and gunning, but don’t you think for a second that I’ve not been paying attention to the ever-changing, ever-intriguing world of food. As a matter of fact, Hunter Angler Gardner Cook writer Hank Shaw is in town right now and I have been oh-so lucky to have spent a good amount of time talking, cooking and laughing with him and my buddy Paul C. Hank is driving from state to state promoting his newly released book “Hunt, Gather, Cook: Finding the Forgotten Feast“. He also had a chance to sign copies for the people who donated during my crazy 24 hour cook-a-thon so, if you’re expecting a copy from me, it’ll be on it’s way to you this weekend–graced with Hank’s signature.

One of the things we talked about was Bon Appetit’s piece on Mr. Henderson which you can find on shelves now. There’s only one problem:


When I mentioned my irritation of the omission, claiming that Mr. Henderson had contributed more to cooking than Mrs. Paltrow ever would, Hank set me straight.

“I’ve seen her book actually, and it’s solid.” Hank said.


“Really, and you need to take something else into consideration Ryan. She’s a going to sell pallets of her book and people will likely cook from it. To you and I, Fergus isn’t far out there at all, but to the soccer moms and people who’ve never cooked before he’s a niche chef, cooking weird things. She’s going to have a big impact, and cooking will be better for it.”

It stung a little thinking of nose-to-tail eating as niche, but I couldn’t even begin to dispute his point. He was right, and I knew it. It’s my hope that some day the general population won’t gag at the idea of eating tripe, but that day isn’t here yet. It was a sobering conversation, but the wake up call was appreciated.

For you and I though, this article is excellent. Much love to Christine Muhlke for the insider’s view of a Sunday Roast with the Hendersons and to Ditte Isager for the exquisite photography. Each picture caused the grin plastered to my face to expand wider and wider. Below are pictures of the piece, but I highly suggest running out and grabbing a copy because of the recipes which include the oh-so-delicious Roast Bone Marrow with Parsley Salad and instructions on making quite possibly the best Chocolate Ice Cream to ever grace the planet. Yeah, it really is that good. Cross my heart.







You can check it out online too, but grab a physical copy if you can. Help support our food-writing friends.

6 thoughts on “Bon Appetit interviews Mr. Henderson

  1. I have this issue and I had no idea this was in there! Yikes!

    Can’t wait to read it when I get home – thanks for the heads up Ryan 🙂

  2. Thanks for the heads-up on this article. And it’s great to see Hank getting the word out about his book, here, there, and everywhere.

    And Paltrow? As an ex-vegan myself, I think her shifting diet gives her a valuable voice in conversations about meat-eating.

  3. Hiya Sydney! I’d not have known myself if David S. over at belm blog hadn’t given me a heads up.

    Tovar, Hank is just such an authentic person, it’s a real honor that I get to pal around with him from time to time. I plan on advocating people hurry up and sign up for one of his book tasting events tomorrow. The Austin event was a blast and with the combo of Fino’s chef and Hank’s direction the food was a testament to local foraging’s bounty.

    You’re right about Paltrow 100%. I’d not known at the time that she’d made the leap to meat-eating. My opinion of her forever tainted by Bourdain’s cries of derision, “Message to Gwenyth Paltrow: I don’t know what the f@#$ is the matter with you. How can you drive across Spain and not eat ham? Mario, I love you, but why did you bring along the one f*$^ing kid in the world who can’t eat ham? I’m pretty sure God’s against that.”

    I’ve been a little more closed-minded culinarily lately than I should be. Lack of calories getting to me I suppose.

  4. I have to say, the little gem and tomato salad recipe from that article is flat-out delish. I’ve made it several times already (with romaine taking the place of the little gem), and it’s remarkably tasty. And for the record, why didn’t *I* ever think of putting cooked tomatoes in a salad?! Sheesh 🙂

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